Pre-Course Information

Crevasse Rescue Course

Please don't hesitate to contact the lead instructor Joe Stock with questions at alaskaguidecollective@gmail.com or 907-830-0125.

Pre-Course Homework

1. Complete one adult waiver or one minor waiver (under 18) per person.

2. Practice with your field gear so you're ready. This is not a backcountry riding course.

3. Practice with knots. You will learn more on this course if you have some comfort with knots. Practice these knots figure eights, overhands, Munter hitch, prusik hitch, autoblock hitch, and clove hitch. See Animated Knots for help.

4. Optional reading, Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue notes.

5. Optional reading, Vdiffclimbing Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue.

Prepare for the Cold!

We will be standing around more than on a normal day of backcountry skiing. It might be cold. See also the detailed gear list. Some additional tips:

• Bring a BIG backpack to put all this stuff in.

• Bring multiple puff layers: two puff coats, puff pants or puff skirt.

• Bring big insulated boots like Muck Arctic boots for the parking lot debrief.

• Bring a thermos of hot drink for the trail.

• Leave a thermos of hot drink in your car for afterward.

• Eat a big breakfast and eat all day long.

• Keep your toes warm with clean socks, heat packs, possibly electric socks (Lenz are best), or 40 Below Fresh Tracks overboots.

• Consider bringing extra layers in the car like a sleeping bag to wrap around your shoulders for the parking lot debrief.

Itinerary

• Day 0: 7:00 - 7:30pm Zoom meeting. We’ll email a link two weeks before.

  • Introductions

  • Trip discussion

  • Questions

• Day 1: Meet at 8am at Kaladi Brothers Coffee (6921 Brayton Drive) in Anchorage before going to Glen Alps for the day.

  • Glaciology and glacier hazards

  • Avoiding a crevasse fall

  • Gear for crevasse rescue

  • Knots review: figure 8s, overhands, Munter hitch, clove hitch, prusik hitch, and autoblock hitch.

  • Setting up your harness

  • Roping together

  • Rescue coils and/or Kiwi coils

  • Stopper knots

  • Self-arresting a fall

  • Snow anchors

  • Ascending a rope for self rescue

  • Unroped crevasse falls

• Day 2: Meet at 9am at Arctic Valley parking lot for a full day of practicing crevasse rescue.

  • Direct haul (pulling victim straight out)

  • Team C

  • Drop loop (2:1)

  • Drop loop + 3:1 = 6:1

Includes

• Two days (16 hours) of instruction.

• Professional instructors: AMGA Ski Guide certified and American Avalanche Association Pro 2 certified.

• 4:1 max student to instructor ratio.

• Group gear: ropes and pickets, navigation, first aid, and repair kits, emergency communication and shelter.

Does Not Include

• Lodging, food, and drink.

• Transportation to and from the trailhead.

• Personal ski mountaineering gear. See gear list.

• Rescue and trip insurance (recommended). See Reservation and Insurance Policy for details.

Prerequisites

• Advanced downhill ability. You must be able to ski or splitboard black diamond runs at the resort without falling. Being in control is fundamental to reducing risk, group compatibility, group learning, and your learning.

• Age 16 or older and with someone who can drive to the field.

• Have personal gear ready for field day. See gear list. Snowboarders must have split-boards and skins. Sorry, no snowshoes on this course. Note that you do not need a snow saw, extended column test cord or GPS navigation app for this course.

• Fitness for two full days in the mountains, skinning up 500-2,000 vertical feet each day.

• Be prepared to remain outside all day in cold and foul weather.

• Practice with knots. You will learn more on this course if you have some comfort with knots. Practice these: figure eights, overhands, Munter hitch, prusik hitch, autoblock hitch, and clove hitch. See Animated Knots for help.

• Avalanche Rec 1 Course recommended.